Update #1: Old Blue

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Connell and I with the Tacoma now dubbed “Old Blue”

Hello from Squamish! After cleaning up my grandpa’s ’91 Tacoma (only 90k miles!) Connell and I made it to Squamish, greeted by beautiful weather and the ever inspiring Chief. Without the luxury of a bed in the truck we set up camp down by the river off the forest road with the ever-growing crowd of festival goers (Squamish music festival) and other climbers like ourselves. For lack of time this will just be an update and i’ll save majority of self-reflective ramblings for a rainy day, which should be Wednesday.

Day 1: Sunset Strip 5.10d, 12 pitches 

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Connell at the top of Sunset Strip

This was a beautiful climb with pitch after pitch (yes, we pitched the whole thing out…) of interesting, mentally challenging and as always, humbling climbing.

 

Day 2: Bullet Head East 5.10c, 4 pitches

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Connell and the marshland

Another beautiful climb with amazing stemming, crack climbing and even a flaring chimney at the end! The stem-box is the money pitch (pitch 3). We ended with original finish which is a chimney that climbed (or I climbed it) more like an off-width. I groveled my way up swearing, sweating and judging by my legs at the end, attacking. We ended the day with a walk out to the spit and a bath in the icy cold river.

Day 3: Milk Road 5.10d A0, 9 pitches

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Connell on “Crescent Dyke”

We ended our three day streak on this beautiful line up the Tantalus Wall. We kind of messed up on what gear to bring and halfway up the crux pitch I was kicking myself for that. Not feeling bold enough to run it out to the top I lowered down and re-climbed it more efficiently. Connell took the lead on the final pitch that traverses out across the headwall on a dyke–I would climb it again just for that. Some amazing and breath-taking exposure.

Today we rest, more updates to come. (stay tuned for some words from Connell)

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